Rick Owens: Fallen Angels

 

A look at the upcoming SS12 collection where Rick Owens described his models as “electrocuted martyrs” walking through a wall of white light as a “gateway to heaven.” Style.com insisted on the religious connotations that the man designed within his clothing lines for the past few seasons, which frankly, I don’t agree with. Sure, superficially there are resemblances, from the hooded cape to the long dark gowns, but why can’t we just leave religion out? I don’t appreciate being called a “futuristic nun” and neither do I think my avant-garde fashionista friends will either, not that we care deep down… People need to stop over-analyzing things, just because the man said “martyrs,” it doesn’t mean that all his collections in the past were religiously associated.

Anyhow, I did not really like SS12’s clothing in general. I felt that the structure of the clothing overshadowed the shape, form, and fluidity of the lines, for which RO is so well known. There was definitely an exaggerated emphasis on clothing architecture which I suppose is what the designer is into these days since he’s starting out a new furniture collection. I do want to commend his use of color for the first time: orange!!! Of all the colors, I think I would have never guessed it, but that’s what I love about RO as well is that he’s absolutely unpredictable! There’s this sense of wildness that’s so well controlled and balanced – a kind of chaos contained within his clothes seeping through the raw and dark edges of every masterpiece. Here are a couple of my favorites:

 

As we look back on FW11, these 3 were my favorite looks. I loved the gloves, the boots, and I can’t imagine what the fur must feel like… Gorgeously understated elegance.

 

Lastly, I loved the FW11 jackets! As always, large shoulder lapels, luxurious lambskin leather, and soft shearling lining, but more shapely wings and definition around the waist. With the Net-à-Porter 50% Off Secret Sale for specific items, I was able to score the jacket of my dreams this season! I will soon reveal my third Rick Owens product once I receive the package! I will let you guess which one I conquered 😀

Pictures from Net-a-Porter and Neiman Marcus

The Dark, Raw, Earthiness and Edge of RO

“Everybody needs a little bit of perversity in their outfit”
– Rick Owens
Nov 28, 2010

RICK OWENS – Vice Magazine
March 2009

“Rick Owens’s brand aesthetic is at once subversive and conservative—it’s the uniform-de-forte of attractive street urchins, but also an elite sartorial badge of honor for the Parisian editorial circlet. Despite Owens’s refusal to advertise or publicize, his whole grunge-glamour deal is like the dim hum of a high-wattage fly zapper—attracting and electrifying those who are into cloaking themselves in a bit of timeless drama and those who just want to own a really fucking nice jacket.”

Ever since I read the article “Elegant Monsters” on The New Yorker featuring an 8 page interview of Rick Owens (RO) from 2008, he has become my newly discovered favorite designer. His blunt no BS personality, his “Legolas turned goth” hairstyle (Vice Magazine), and relationship with Michelle Lamy are infatuating. I’m so repelled by the clash of everything in him, yet find myself attracted to his multi-faceted awkwardness. I can’t speak enough about him.

The man is a genius. I truly see perfection in all his imperfections.

The US contemporary designer is well known since the 90s for his amazing use of jersey, silk, and leather for low key urban styles that are comfortable for everyday wear. His famous biker jacket has been worn by numerous celebrities these days, eg. from Cheryl Cole, Fergie, Jennifer Anniston, Lindsay Lohan, and Gwenyth Paltrow to the more “unexpected” Taylor Swift and Anne Hathaway…etc but no one wears them as well as, imo, the Olsen Twins who embody the RO spirit. As seen here on Ashley Olsen in RO clothing:


RO FW10 Gleam Collection:
Biker Jacket with Leather Cord Sleeve Embellishments in Black Vintage Leather Wash

– Outer: 90% lambskin, 10% wool
– Inner lining: 45% cotton, 40% rayon, 15% silk
– Size 40 (It)

This is probably my most expensive piece of clothing. I absolutely ADORE this jacket! Beats Balenciaga’s Motorcycle leather jacket any day! I mean, Bal’s is great quality, but leans more toward the glamorous Hollywood style and thus loses that edgy attitude. As described in the title of this entry, RO’s designs strike the perfect balance between this dark, raw earthiness and understated chicness.

The sizing is Italian which runs very small already, but on top of this, RO’s clothing are super tight fitted which is why this jacket is a size 40 on me. In comparison with French sizing like Vuitton, I usually wear 34-36! There are various leather washes called, Smooth, Blister, and Destroyed Blister which are names for the increasing amount of distress in the leather finish. Mine is probably the most distressed, given that the name is Vintage leather. There are also differences between SS and FW versions of the Biker jackets, mainly in that the Autumn ones are thicker.

I’d like to introduce my first RO jacket:
– For reference: Hudson jeans and CL Lady Claude

 

RO FW10 Gleam Collection:
Stivale Low Wedge Boots in Black Distressed Leather

– 140 mm wedge heels, 20 mm platform
– Comes with a large, soft cotton bag with RO’s signature! You can stuff the shoes in it or use it to carry your other belongings.
– I was debating on whether or not to get these shoes or Balenciaga’s Wrap Booties, but earlier in Fall last year, I went with Bal’s cuz they had a nicer, more feminine almond toe. Yet in the end, I couldn’t let go of RO’s and ended up buying these too. They’re super comfy, much more comfy than Bal’s which are a half size small on me. I would’ve preferred RO’s “Tall” version of these boots, but my chubby calves couldn’t fit into them! I was so mad!!! My only complaint about these shoes is that it gets tiring after a while walking in them. The pitch is 120 which is seriously the steepest I’ve gone. Even my CL Pigalle Plato 140 aren’t that bad in comparison.

Above: Toe comparison to Balenciaga’s Wrap Booties